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The idea had always glowed—however faintly—in the back of Steve Oldham’s mind. He jokes about it now, saying that just like every other missionary who returns from Brazil, he came home with dreams of starting his own Brazilian steakhouse.
It’s 9:58 p.m. in a small, dark theater. The audience members, an eclectic mix of fashionistas and film fanatics, sit whispering, their faces washed in the green glow of the theater’s exit signs.